Back to work?

That’s it, folks: summer is officially coming to a close. But fear not — settling back into your autumnal working rhythms doesn’t mean binning your style. For this episode of the PERFECT X, we’re going back to the office and talking all things shirts — with Pierre A. M’Pelé (aka Pam Boy) as our guide.

Pam Boy is as fashionable a dresser as he is a prolific writer. He’s previously held senior positions at the Perfect Magazine and at GQ France, where he was head of editorial content. As a fashion editor, he’s well versed in going straight from the office to the function and looking bold yet crisp all the way. He’s also a lover of a big pattern, a higher waist, and an all-round whiff of ’70s chic — so if you thought this shirting would be straight-laced, think again.

We’re also not here for ‘office siren,’ ‘secretary core,’ or any other faux-workplace fad — these are real clothes, for real people, that you can wear on the daily and still look awesome. Shirting is both an art and a science. Quality, longevity, and fit are essential, and that’s before you even think about patterns or styles. Niche measurements rule the nest here; knowing your collar size isn’t just for your older relatives. And here to help us navigate this landscape is a real expert — time to dig in.

The bolder, the better

“ I think everything is permitted in fashion if, and only if, it fits the person who wears the garment. ”

- Pam Boy

Hey Pam Boy! So, first up: describe your ideal shirt for a day at the office. What material is it? How does it fit? What colour would you go for? How do you style it?

The ideal office shirt is a crisp white shirt. You can’t go wrong with it — but just because it’s a white shirt, doesn’t mean it’s boring. The fit is important: it can’t be too big, or so tight that buttons might pop out in a board meeting. White generally evokes authority and respect, purity and cleanliness. In short, the kind of shirt that someone you’d entrust with your life savings would wear. You can style it with a pair of blue jeans (chinos if you’re an accountant) and suit trousers. It’s almost as versatile as a white t-shirt.

And how about your ideal shirt for casual wear? How is it different?

Anything with prints. Prints can be very effective at elevating a casual outfit. There are also so many possibilities with colours and fits.

As a fashion editor, what’s your biggest faux pas to avoid with shirting?

I think everything is permitted in fashion if, and only if, it fits the person who wears the garment.

Measurements are key with shirting. Any tips for taking them properly, and for interpreting size guides?

In an ideal world, one would make or have their shirts made. The best way to get your measurements right is to go to a local tailor and kindly ask them to do it for you. Taking measurements is generally easier with a helping hand.

Shop the classics

“ The best way to get your measurements right is to go to a local tailor and kindly ask them to do it for you. Taking measurements is generally easier with a helping hand. ”

- Pam Boy

What materials do you look for in a shirt? How does it differ for the weather or occasion?

It must be made of cotton, all year long. That’s the only requirement. I used to hate short-sleeved shirts, but I’m getting used to them and even enjoy them myself in the warmer months.

And do you look for any special features? Think funky collars, buttons, pockets…

I don’t actively look for special features, but I’m always trying to find that one detail that speaks to me and makes a purchase worth it. But you never know what it is until you see it!

How important is the brand, and which are your favourites?

The brand isn’t as important as the fit, the colour, or the style. But I appreciate a wide range of brands from Polo Ralph Lauren to Helmut Lang, to GmbH, Paul Smith or even Vivienne Westwood.

What’s the secret to getting a shirt to see you through both work and evening socialising? Any styling tips for work-play transformations?

I like to switch to an evening tie with a bit of sheen in the fabric, and add a special tie clip. Alternatively, ditch the tie, unbutton your top three — or more if you’re about that life — to make way for a silk scarf. The right accessory will always elevate.

You have to wear one shirt from your wardrobe for the rest of time. What you going for and why?

My silk black Pedro shirt from Arturo Obegero. I used to hate black shirts, but this one is perfect on a night out, for dinner or drinks.

And finally, any tips for taking care of your shirts so they last you a lifetime?

Dry-clean your shirts if you can, otherwise follow the washing instructions carefully and use a mesh net bag in the washing machine. Use a steamer for delicate fabrics instead of an iron. Have a good rotation of shirts, and wear undershirts.

Layer up!

“ Use a steamer for delicate fabrics instead of an iron. Have a good rotation of shirts, and wear undershirts. ”

- Pam Boy

Plain or patterned?

Patterned

Slim fit or baggy?

Slim fit

Formal or casual?

Formal

Short-sleeved or long-sleeved?

Long-sleeved

Tie or no tie?

Tie

Cufflinks or buttons?

Cufflinks

Ruffles, yes or no?

No!

And finally, what’s your final piece of advice for readers who are looking for their next work shirt?

It’s okay if you break the “rules”!

The fashion editor’s edit

The perfect shirt starts with the perfect fit. Find your fit with Size & Fit: log your measurements, share your sizing feedback, and explore a new world of fashion tailored just for you.