Best bistro in Paris

“The ’90s is ultimately my era,” Cate Underwood tells me. “I feel like it reflects in my photography, in how I dress, in the visuals I like, in the places I go to.” From behind a slick pair of Matrix-reminiscent sunglasses, Underwood — a Ukrainian-born, Paris-based photographer, model, DJ, and art director — narrates the story of her creative coming-of-age with a palpable sense of nostalgia. We’re in the back of a Sprinter van during Fashion Week, escaping the chaos of shows to stop by her favourite Parisian haunt, Sugaar, a restaurant and social hotspot run by her partner Joachim.

Underwood first picked up a camera in 1990s Kyiv. Enticed by the gritty, post-Soviet reality of her home country’s capital, she documented the people, the parties, and the underground hedonism of what she describes as a “grotesque” era: imported clothes, furniture, and technology were suddenly available to buy, and Ukrainian cool kids were enthralled by the newfound spoils of independence and the Western world. For Underwood, the main character in all this was her mother. “My mom was so cool in the ’90s,” she smiles. “I can picture her, in this high-waisted swimsuit with the American flag on it… It was a wild time.”

Sitting in Sugaar, for which she crafts the visual language and art direction, it’s clear that Underwood is able to channel her creative identity in impressively diverse fields. Nestled in Paris’ chic Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, it’s a space that encapsulates the elegance of her spirit — the depth of the maroon walls, the minute details of each dish, the sense of a dining experience both deliberate and effortless. As I speak with her, she is purposeful and attentive, with a steadiness of diction and confidence of gait which commands the attention of any room, or any street.

As fashion week began, we spent a day sweeping around Paris with Underwood — or rather, we followed as she swept along in a glorious faux-leopard coat, attracting the stares of all coffee-drinkers and lunch-takers in the city she now calls home — and chatted about fashion week, creative identity, and how to think like a true Parisian.

A woman in a leopard-print coat adjusts her sunglasses while exiting a black vehicle, showcasing a confident urban fashion moment.

“ My favourite thing about fashion week is probably the unpredictable circumstances. ”

- Cate Underwood

Describe PFW in 3 words. Be honest.

Chaotic. Inspiring. Fun!

One ritual you do before attending a PFW show?

I always get out of the car a street early to escape traffic and enjoy a moment of peace.

How do you think your style reflects the identity of the French capital?

Effortless but intentional — Paris is all about nonchalance with purpose.

Go-to outfit for a busy day running from show to show during PFW?

Sharp-shouldered blazer, wide-leg low-waist jeans (mine are always men’s Dries), and platform heels — just in case the day seamlessly turns into night.

What’s your favourite thing about PFW?

The unpredictable circumstances — getting lost on the way to a show, bumping into friends you haven’t seen in ages, skipping a party for a proper dinner instead. In Paris, everyone takes dinner very seriously.

What’s your favourite snack to have between shows?

Espresso counts as a snack, right?

A big celebrity walks through the door at Sugaar…who is it?

The best thing about Sugaar is that there’s no formula for who walks in and when. But if I had to pick — Juergen Teller or Rick Owens.

What’s the most surprising trend you’ve seen on the PFW runway this season?

Tiny bags are getting even tinier. Soon, we’ll just be carrying vibes (hopefully only good ones!).

“ The Matrix is one of the biggest inspirations for my wardrobe. I find it so cool, with the leather coats and small glasses… very mysterious. ”

- Cate Underwood

Fashion-week-ready

What’s one accessory or item you can’t live without during PFW? What’s always in your bag?

Sunglasses — the ultimate shield against fashion week madness. Plus, Dries Van Noten beauty lip balm, transparent brow gel, AirPods, and a golden lighter.

What’s one piece of advice you’d give to someone attending PFW for the first time?

Don’t take it too seriously — fashion week is supposed to be fun! Also, find a uniform look which reflects who you are, so you will be comfortable in your skin wearing it all day. Schedule can get very tight very fast!

Do you have a fashion week styling ick?

Dressing against the weather. I don’t believe in torturing yourself — whether it’s fashion, workouts, or diets. Looking good doesn’t have to be a struggle.

Describe to me a dream campaign you’d like to star in.

I’d love to play the lead role in a perfume ad. Somehow I really enjoy working with film production — I guess it has something to do with the impressive scale of it, and the fact that the video makes everything feel more real.

3 tracks you’ve had on repeat this month?

What I listen casually to during the day is not the music I usually DJ or dance to, so the selection is quite unexpected sometimes! This month it’s The Presets, “If I Know You”; Whitney Houston, “It’s Not Right But It’s Okay”; and Megan Thee Stallion, “Body”.